February, 2011 | New Designer Fashion

Archive for February, 2011

Follow our live coverage of the gowns, the glamour and the little gold statues on Hollywood’s biggest night. View full post on InStyle.com – This Just In

Karl Lagerfeld insisted that the painterly, Dadaist backdrop at Fendi‘s show today had little or nothing to do with the collection, but his co-conspirator Silvia Venturini Fendi had already described a picture of the woman whose spirit dominated the show: a buttoned-up-to-the-neck art teacher who was still wild enough to wipe her paintbrushes in her hair and unleash the animal within. Nice. If she was the raison d’être of the collection, kudos to her, because this was one of Fendi’s strongest showings yet, in an escalating series of convincing fashion performances. Teach’s style was strict but lived-in. She wore Mary Janes; her woolen tights bagged slightly at the knee. A decorous yet bold frill was pinned to the front of her blouse. She had incredible taste in cloth coats, one of which was appealingly detailed with a bow in the back. She valued comfort, as in the elasticated waist and cuffs of a skirt and pants. And her highly developed color sense was obvious in her layering of a rich blue coat over a teal skirt and yellow tights.


But this woman was also uncaged in her soul. There are seasons when Fendi’s artistry with fur is devoted to suggesting the opposite. This wasn’t one of them. Today’s teacher wigged out on shaggy wildness. Sable, fox, chinchilla, and mink were collaged together to make an altogether new beast, in the same way that the leather of the new Fendi Chameleon bags was treated to lend an element of ever-shifting unpredictability. This unrestrained, unpredictable spirit guided the trompe l’oeil of an apparently sober dress that matched a navy cotton blouse to a felted wool skirt—and spun to reveal that it was slashed open at the back. Anja Rubik’s finale number also had a standout sobriety—high-collared, full-sleeved, floor-length—but it too was bare behind. In fact, Rubik’s outfits in the show marked the trajectory of the collection, from her opening hike-in-the-country coat to a navy leather-and-fur construct to that final look. From prim to pagan and back again (or sage to sauvage, which was the suggestion of the show notes), there was an emotional arc here that even the ever-matter-of-fact Lagerfeld couldn’t deny.
—Tim Blanks View full post on Runway Feed

Welcome back, Danielle Scutt! Showing today for the first time in three seasons, Scutt sent out a forceful collection that confirmed her assertion that she’s spent the past year doing some growing up. Certainly, the looks here were polished: Scutt has that rare ability to make really sexy clothes look sophisticated, thanks to sharp tailoring and wit in the design. On the understated end of things, there were her knee-length pleated wool skirt, slit up to there, and sleek knit jumpsuits with diving necklines, both looks for high-IQ vixens. Scutt’s body-hugging crushed-velvet dresses were nervier—a little louche, yes, but not crass. That’s a fine line, and Scutt kept the dresses modest enough to stay on the right side of it.


The designer’s riskiest idea this season was to craft a wide mesh from pieces of silk, and then drape it like cloth. The mesh appeared in a host of winning garments, including a skinny suit in black and a hot pink pencil dress with dramatic pouf sleeves. The craft here was breathtaking, and it was refreshing, too, to see looks redolent of old-Hollywood glamour that weren’t narrowly referential of it; Scutt just conjured the mood. She also did well with her outerwear, in particular an adapted trenchcoat that draped at the back. The silhouette was dramatic, but its oversize proportions gave it a nice, shrugged-on feeling. This was glamour re-spun as cool.


An additional note, about the jewelry: Freedom, which produces costume jewelry for Topshop, collaborated with Scutt on the statement pieces worn in the show. “Statement” might not go far enough in describing the impact of the shoe clips, chain belts, chokers, and frankly wackadoodle earrings, comprised of teakettle, ear, and lipstick charms, but it will have to do. At first the jewelry seemed nuts, and then it struck you that maybe that kind of fun is the whole point of costume jewelry. Girls who want to indulge can do so ASAP: The Scutt jewelry goes on sale today online, and will be available in stores in April.
—Maya Singer View full post on Runway Feed

View full post on InStyle.com – This Just In

View full post on InStyle.com – This Just In

Rihanna, Justin Bieber and Katy Perry were just a few of the stars on the red carpet. See who else turned up on music’s biggest night. View full post on InStyle.com – This Just In

Stacey Bendet, about to pop with her second child, modeled Fall’s girl on a modern-day Auntie Mame. The concept, that is, and not the clothes—it was Mame’s eclecticism, Bendet was careful to point out, and not necessarily her fab dressing gowns that inspired this season’s collection. But there was an unmistakable flapper-era vibe to the presentation. Set in a gilded entry hall at the Plaza hotel, it included a live performance by the burlesque dancer Hazel Honeysuckle.

Before the crowds descended, Bendet said she’d been focusing on pants and experimenting with knits: “I wanted more separates, not just dresses,” she explained. And while there were a few nice examples of trousers and tops—a pair of chocolate brown high-waisted cords worn with an open knit cardigan and a fur-trimmed blazer, for example—it was the dresses that really called for attention. Shiny with sequins or sheer with lace, they were party-ready. If they were a bit too costume-party-ready, a change of venue and a few styling tweaks—a simpler shoe here, one less strand of pearls there—should help lessen the shtick factor.
—Alison Baenen View full post on Runway Feed

Steinfeld channeled her white swan in a Miu Miu dress View full post on InStyle.com – This Just In

Our review will be posted shortly. In the meantime, please enjoy these pictures. View full post on Runway Feed

View full post on InStyle.com – This Just In